A dear friend once told me that when you travel, you realize afterward which experience was the most significant, the one that immediately comes to mind when reflecting on the trip. During our three-month journey in Borneo, mostly on Sabah, two experiences stood out, one of which was our visit to Howard’s Tampat Do Aman, at the northern Tip-of-Borneo, close to Kudat. at the northern tip of Borneo, near Kudat. Why is this place so special?
When you look at a map, it’s clear why the Tip of Borneo is unique. Historically, it was a crucial navigational point on the maritime Silk Road, linking the South China, Sulu, and Celebes Seas. It also faced frequent pirate raids until the mid-20th century, forcing diverse peoples and tribes, such as the Rungus or Bajau, to either adapt or relocate to Kudat or beyond. It’s hard to imagine such a turbulent past when you see the tranquil beaches now.
The waves were pleasant, and the currents on the southern part of the beach were gentle. We even had surfing lessons with a local instructor. Surprisingly, the beaches were lined with pine trees, interspersed with coconut palms.
What truly made this place memorable was Howard, a tall British man who established Tampat Do Aman. It’s a resort featuring a variety of huts and lodges, both Western and traditional Rungus-style. Howard was always ready to take us to the beach, served us classic British breakfasts, and shared his extensive knowledge about the local nature and people. It’s places like this where you meet other friendly travelers.
Howard, also a trained survival guide, taught our kids essential jungle survival skills, such as building a shelter off the ground, signaling for help and behavior if lost, finding dry wood, and starting a fire with bamboo sticks …
If you ever need a break from nature (butterflies!) and the beach, Kudat, a quaint town, is just a 30-minute drive away. And if you don’t have a car, you might be able to hire Peter and his 60-year-old Japanese-brand taxi.
We will definitively come back. Thank you Howard!
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